Fault: Diesel that will not start or stalls at startup (Peugeot 306 1.9L D/TD)
Removal of the diesel fuel filter
Remove the filter from its jar and set aside.
Disconnect the cable from the water sensor.
Unscrew the cap of the sensor. Attention, don't unscrew it if you had seen a trace of leakage on or under the CAP. Over the years, he may be tired but not having air intake. Unmount it may be sufficient to cause one.- If you did have a leak at the base of the filter, stop there. There is no use to unmount the filter bowl.
- Unplug the blue plug at the bottom of the filter on the front
- Detach the hose inlet fuel filter. This is the hose that arrives at the foot of the filter on the rear of the filter, on the right of the vehicle. It is held by a metal clamp to stop. Take a small pair of pliers or a screwdriver to open it (drag the upper strand of the collar along the axis of the hose).
Unscrew the bolt located at the bottom of the jar of diesel fuel filter. It holds the jar on the body of the cooling circuit. Remove the filter bowl and think to recover the o-ring at the base of the jar (between the jar and the support).
Elimination of leakages from the filter
If you had a leak in the cap of the water sensor, you don't have the choice. Change to a new sensor.
If you had a leak at the base of the jar, it may be due to oxidation on the support. Treat it as follows:
- Clean the coil in the bracket and the vicinity of the filter with paper towel.
- With a very fine coachbuilder sandpaper (grit 1000), slightly rub the aluminum body to clean its traces.
- Then clean the aluminum body with a cloth.
- Clean the base of the jar and its seal.
- If the o-ring at the base of the jar is cracked or crushed, plan to change it. Alternatively you can keep it.
Once this cleaning done you can remount the diesel filter.
Installation of the diesel fuel filter
- Close the purge of the jar.
- Replace the jar on its support by well positioning the base gasket.
- Tighten the bolt at the bottom of filter. Needless to tighten like a sick. It risk break it all.
- Screw the water sensor if you had removed it.
- Connect the fuel hose. Use small pliers to close the metal clamp.
- Connect the blue plug on the front of the filter
- Replace the filter in its jar.
- Replace the fuel filter cover.
Now your intake circuit is full of air, it is therefore necessary to purge.
Purge the air present in the admission of diesel oil circuit
It is now that the PEAR/pump in diesel manual will be useful for us.
- Unscrew the tip of the purge of the circuit on the pump injection (mark 3). Hold the basis of purge (banjo fitting) with a spanner when you open the purge otherwise you risk to totally unscrew the purge. If you unblock it, screw back it. Enlarge the picture to see the purge on the pump. Warning, the purge unit is fragile because of her hole in the middle.
- Pump fuel with the PEAR / hand pump in diesel (mark 2).
- When the fuel comes out the purge, close it. Wipe the diesel fuel that leaked.
- Pump still 2 or 3 shots.
- Start the engine
And it's done. It may be noted that joints of the filter (the jar and cover base) may be changed on occasion even if they are not dead. Their price is really low and given the age of the vehicle, they may no longer be in great shape.
If there is presence of air bubbles in the fuel circuit after these interventions, and that you have not found other air intake, it can come from a part of the fuel admisssion more difficult to control. That is located before the PEAR/handpump. It could then be the hose from the tank, the gauge in the tank (fuel gauge). Recheck the seals on the pump injection in doubt.
You can see that it is a pretty minimal failure but that can become very problematic. This is indeed the kind of failure that is not well understood and that can make us change parts "just to test if this is it". I've met a few years where, for 1 or 2 grams of chip, you could diagnose a change of injection pump that was as expensive as the car! But hey, it will be for a future article.
Good road!
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